Thingish Thought: Notes on Craft, History & Materials

March 16th, 2026

Trendy jewelry has never been more accessible. You can easily purchase chunky chains, sparkling rings, and flashy earrings, often inspired by hip-hop fashion and social media, for just a few dollars from retail outlets and especially from marketing sites Shein, Temu, and AliExpress, and I would also lump in Etsy resellers. (Etsy's breach of their original commitment to handmade and how they sold-out artisans is a fascinating tale for another time.)

Buyers should scrutinize the materials used in cheap jewelry more closely, as some may pose health risks. This is not new to the industry; investigative reports dating back over a decade have shown that certain materials, especially from overseas manufacturing, can be toxic.

Well worth the slightly less than 30-minute watch, a recent video documentary report by Deutsche Welle examined the supply chain behind fast-fashion jewelry and tested a range of low-cost accessories sold through major retailers and online platforms. Notably, many familiar brick-and-mortar stores carry these products. 

The results were concerning. Out of 18 items tested, 15 contained detectable heavy metals, and several pieces contained levels high enough to be considered unsafe for sale. In some cases, the base metal of the jewelry contained large amounts of cadmium, a toxic metal linked to organ damage and cancer.

Why Cheap Jewelry Can Contain Toxic Metals

Unlike fine jewelry, which is made from precious metals such as gold or silver, low-end costume jewelry is usually made from base metal alloys such as zinc, copper, brass, or steel. These metals are often plated with a thin decorative coating that gives them the appearance of gold or silver.

Since these pieces sell at incredibly low prices with minimal margins, their profitability relies solely on high sales volume. So manufacturers are more than tempted to use inexpensive alloys that may contain trace amounts or significant amounts of heavy metals. 

If the plating stays intact, one may never notice the underlying metal. But due to extreme pressures to manufacture as cheaply as possible, the plating on these items, even by minimum industry standards, is extremely thin. This ultra-thin layer wears through rapidly, even with normal use. Once the plating is gone, the underlying alloy is exposed and contacts the skin, which can lead to discoloration, staining, allergic reactions, and, if toxic metals are present, the gradual leaching of those elements into your body.

For occasional decorative use, this costume jewelry can serve its purpose. But it should not be mistaken for fine jewelry, either in durability or in the materials involved. In the long run, pieces made from well-understood precious metal alloys are safer, more stable, and far more satisfying to wear.

Challenges

Regulations in Europe and the United States limit the amount of toxic metals permitted in jewelry. Yet with millions of inexpensive pieces imported every year, regulators cannot realistically conduct enough random testing to really make a significant impact on preventing toxic jewelry from reaching the consumer. At least in the US, this problem has gotten worse due to the Trump administration's cutbacks and consumer protection deregulation.

This restriction means that problematic pieces can easily slip through.

Protecting Yourself

Most costume jewelry is worn without incident, but a little caution is wise:

• Be wary of extremely cheap jewelry sold online or through unknown sellers
• Replace pieces if plating begins to wear or discolor
• Beware of nickel-plated jewelry that mimics silver or platinum. While durable, nickel is one of the metals most commonly associated with skin allergies and sensitivities.
• Avoid giving inexpensive jewelry to small children, who may mouth or swallow items
• When possible, choose jewelry made from known materials such as vermeil or gold-filled, sterling silver, stainless steel, or gold.
   

A Matter of Meaning

Jewelry has always carried meaning, personal, cultural, and artistic. While fashion jewelry can be fun and expressive, it’s worth remembering that materials matter. Pieces made from stable metals are not only more durable; they are also safer for long-term wear.

As the recent investigation reminds us, when it comes to jewelry, all that glitters isn't gold.